Dawn Siler

Is The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner a dupe for The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution?

It sure looks like it. Like The Ordinary, The Inkey List aims to give us actives that work at the cheapest possible price. Heck, the brand even took inspiration from The Ordinary’s black and white packaging!

But are they as good as the original? When it comes to their Glycolic Acid Toner at least, The Inkey List has fallen off the mark. Here’s why:

GLYCOLIC ACID

Derived from sugar cane, Glycolic acid is the most famous member of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid family, a group of exfoliating acids. It has several superpowers:

Sounds too good to be true? Well, there’s a catch… Or two:

1. Irritation: everything that removes dead skin cells can irritate skin. The lower the dose of GA, the lower the chance of irritation (and its effectiveness).
2. PH: a high ph neutralises GA, making it useless.

Both The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution and The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner have a pH of 3.6 – the sweet spot that makes this acid exfoliate at its best.

The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner does the job a little better. It has a slightly higher concentration of glycolic acid (10% vs 7%) that makes it a little more powerful… and irritating.

Related: The Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid: What It Is, What It Does & How To Use It

Ginseng & Tasmanian Pepperberry

Both The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution and The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner have simple formulas that let the acid do the bulk of the work.

But The Ordinary has added in a couple of extracts that are very beneficial for your skin:

Well played, The Ordinary.

Related: 4 Things I Learned From Korean Skincare

With Hazel & Alcohol

Glycolic Acid apart, there’s not much else in The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner that benefits skin. But there are a couple of irritants that could spell trouble…

Alcohol and witch hazel. Or should I say, alcohol and alcohol. Witch hazel is so problematic because it’s often distilled in alcohol…

But is alcohol bad? Not if you moisturise well afterwards. Skip this step, and it can dry out and irritate your skin.

Alcohol isn’t as bad as it’s made out to be. I’m just disappointed that The Inkey List hasn’t added anything to their toner to counteract its drying effect.

Related: The Truth About Alcohol-Free Skincare Products

What Else Do You Need To Know?

Not much. I told you, The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner is super basic. It’ll exfoliate your skin (a little too harshly, maybe) and that’s about it.

The Ordinary Glycolic And 7% Toning Solution exfoliates, soothes, and hydrates. The formula has a bunch of humectants (glycerin, amino acids and urea) that attract moisture from the air into the skin, keeping it softer for longer.

Related: What The Heck Are Humectants And Why Do You Need Them In Your Skincare Routine?

Which Of The Two Should You Go For?

Sorry, The Inkey List! The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution wins hands down here.

It may be a little less powerful, but it exfoliates skin more gently AND has soothing and hydrating properties to boot.

Remember: when it comes to exfoliation, gentler is better than powerful.

Related: How To Choose The Right Exfoliant For Your Skin Type

Availability

The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner (£6.99): Available at Cult Beauty and Feel Unique

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution (£6.75): Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Escentual and Feel Unique

Is The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner A Dupe For The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution?

I wouldn’t call them dupe. It may be hard to believe, but The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner is an even more basic version of The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution. Unfortunately, it’s more irritating, too.

Have you tried The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner and The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution? Share your fave pick in the comments below.

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Glycolic Acid, Rosa damascena flower water, Centaurea cyanus flower water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Triethanolamine, Aminomethyl Propanol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Aspartic Acid, Alanine, Glycine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine, PCA, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Fructose, Glucose, Sucrose, Urea, Hexyl Nicotinate, Dextrin, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 20, Gellan Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Chloride, Hexylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol.

The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Toner Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Glycolic Acid, Propanediol, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Betaine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

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“What’s this medicine for, and why is it among your skincare stuff? Shouldn’t we put it with all the other meds?,” Mr BWB asked me one night as I was cleansing my skin.

I couldn’t blame it on his lack of interest in skincare. This time. A’pieu Glycolic Acid Cream may be an exfoliating moisturiser, but it does look a lot like an anti-rash medicine…

It’s not the most glamorous but it gets the job done. For beginners, at least. Here’s what I mean…

Key Ingredients In A’pieu Glycolic Acid Cream

Glycolic Acid To Exfoliate Skin

Glycolic Acid is the most famous member of the exfoliating Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) family.

Its job is to dissolve the “glue” that holds skin cells together so they can slough off and reveal the brighter, softer and smoother skin underneath.

While it’s at it, it also hydrates skin. It works by increasing the levels of hyaluronic acid (a humectant that attracts and binds up to 1000 times its weight in water) in the skin.

The catch? Glycolic acid can be irritating, especially if you’ve never used it before. But that shouldn’t be a problem here.

A’pieu Glycolic Acid Cream contains only 3% glycolic acid. It’s a high enough concentration for beginners and low enough to prevent irritations (unless your skin is super sensitive to it).

P.S. Like all exfoliants, glycolic acid can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage. Always use it with sunscreen.

Related: The Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid: What It Is, What It Does & How To Use It

Salicylic Acid To Unclog Pores

Salicylic acid is the only member of the exfoliating Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) family used in skincare.

Like AHAs, salicylic acid exfoliates the surface of your skin to reveal a brighter and smoother complexion.

Unlike AHAs, salicylic acid is oil-soluble. That means it can penetrate inside the pores and exfoliate them from within. Bye bye, acne!

Oh, it has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe redness and irritations, too.

But… there’s a catch. A’pieu Glycolic Acid Cream contains only 0.45% of salicylic acid. Don’t expect results overnight.

Unless your skin is super sensitive, you may be better off with a separate salicylic acid exfoliant. Just saying…

Related: AHAs VS BHA: Which One Is Best For Your Skin Type?

Niacinamide To Hydrate, Soothe And Brighten

A’pieu Glycolic Acid Cream contains one of my fave ingredients: Niacinamide. This form of Vitamin B3 does everything:

The best part? It has no side effects. Everyone can use it.

Related: Can You Mix Niacinamide With Vitamin C?

Let’s Put It To The Test: Personal Use & Opinion

A’pieu Glycolic Acid Cream stings.

I didn’t expect it. I can use higher concentrations of glycolic acid without feeling a single tingling. A tiny 3% concentration should not feel this unpleasant…

It’s not the glycolic acid. A quick look at the ingredient list pointed out the culprit: Propanediol. It’s a solvent that enhances the penetration of active ingredients, but there’s so much of it here (it’s the 3rd ingredient), it tends to irritate skin.

If your skin’s sensitive, I would skip this. If it’s dry like mine, you may use it a couple of times a week – if you don’t find it too unpleasant. At least the stinging doesn’t last long…

The cream has a gel-like texture that spreads easily on the skin. It feels a bit siliconey (silicones are here to help spreadability), but I don’t mind that.

I’ve read a few reviews that say the texture is greasy, but I don’t find that at all. Maybe on oily skin, but then oily skin shouldn’t use glycolic acid. Stick to salicylic acid, ladies!

Usually, I apply exfoliating products straight after cleansing. But this is a cream so I use it as the last step of my evening routine.

Mind you, I keep my routine short: one cleanse, antioxidant serum and A’pieu Glycolic Acid Cream (I use retinol on nights I don’t exfoliate).

I don’t recommend you use an exfoliating cream (especially one with such a low amount of acids) after 10 layers. Don’t make it too hard for glycolic acid to reach your skin and do its job.

Once the stinging has faded away, the cream felt moisturising on my skin. When I wake up in the morning, my skin is smooth and soft.

What about its exfoliating properties? Results are slow here. If you’re used to higher concentrations of glycolic acid, this won’t do much for you.

If you’re a newbie, you’ll see results – slowly. You have to use it consistently to see an improvement. Once you’ve run out, you may want to consider stepping up your game and go with a higher dose, too.

Available at: $15.00/£9.05 at Soko Glam and Yes Style

SHOP THE POST

Have you tried A’pieu Glycolic Acid Cream? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Ingredients: Betula Alba Juice, Water, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Glycolic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Beeswax, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, PEG-100 Stearate, Isohexadecane, PEG-2M, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Sucrose Distearate, Polysorbate 80, Adenosine, Sorbitan Oleate, Disodium EDTA, Pantolactone, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ananas sativus (pineapple) fruit Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Gaultheria Procumbens (Wintergreen) Leaf Extract

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Did you know Dr Debra Jaliman was one of the first physicians to use Botox in her practice?

She has a knack for giving her patients a subtle, natural look that doesn’t betray the work done – you’ve probably seen her work on many models and actresses without realising it. Heck, even fellow physicians flock to her office to learn her injection techniques!

But fillers and botox isn’t all Dr Jaliman is known for. A board certified dermatologist with a practice in New York City, she also specialises in treating skin cancer and rare skin disorders, as well as more common issues like acne and rosacea.

She’s also written a book, “Skin Rules: Trade Secrets From A Top New York Dermaologist”, where she explains how to achieve younger-looking skin and a taut body (FYI, it’s the same advice she gives to her celebrity clients).

But what does she use on her skin? In this interview, Dr Jaliman shares her skincare routine, the healthy lifestyle habits that keep her skin in top shape and what skincare treatments she routinely goes for:

1. When did you become interested in skincare?

I first became interested in skin care when I was young.  I had the unfortunate combination of acne-prone and very sensitive skin.  Most products made for acne would irritate my skin because I was highly allergic; so I would be covered with hives or have acne.  It was just a terrible combination.  

2. What’s your skincare routine like?

My skincare routine is actually pretty basic.  I spend the day talking about skin care and when I’m home I keep it pretty simple.  I use a mild cleanser called Sea Radiance Gentle Cleanser.  It’s very gentle and doesn’t strip my skin of its essential oils.  I use micellar water after cleansing my face. Micellar water removes any trace of makeup or sunscreen that washing my face may have left behind. Before sunscreen, I use my Smoothing Serum, which quenches my dehydrated skin.  At night I use the same mild cleanser, micellar water and Azaclear.  Azaclear is very safe and effective. It’s a nice lotion also made with glycerin so it’s not drying.  

3. If you could only use three skincare products for the rest of your life, what would they be?

1) Mild cleanser- Sea Radiance Gentle Cleanser..which I developed and sell online.  It doesn’t strip the skin and its super hydrating. It’s also anti-inflammatory because it contains arnica.

2) Eye Cream.  Sea Radiance Rapid Eye Lift….which I developed and sell online.  The skin around the eyes is the most delicate with very few oil glands. We blink almost 30,000 times a day and this puts a lot of stress on the skin around the eyes. It’s very important to use an antiaging cream in this area.  It’s filled with peptides and antioxidants so it’s very effective. 

3) Sunscreen. Elta UV Elements.  It contains hyaluronic acid which is super hydrating and it’s tinted. It has a high concentration of zinc oxide 10%. 

4. What are your fave skincare brands and why?

Lierac.  They have products such as the Lierac Micellar water.  It is a French brand and based on medical trials.  Best known for its anti-aging skin care products. 

Elta Sunscreens.  One of my favorite sunscreen brands because they have a lot of physical sunscreens with a high concentration of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which I’m a big fan of. 

Eos.  They make great lip balms and use very good ingredients.  Instead of using petrolatum or parabens, they use ingredients such as jojoba oil, coconut, cocoa butter, shea butter, and vitamin E to soothe the skin.  

5. What are your top 3 skincare tips to take care of your skin?

1. Always wash your face before going to bed so that you don’t end up with bumps from your sunscreen or makeup. 
2. Make sure to exfoliate once a week in the winter and increase it to twice a week in the summer.  Even the best skin in the world will look dull if it is not well exfoliated.
3. Switch up your products as the seasons change.  Different seasons require different skin care products.  The products you apply in the winter may be too heavy for the spring and summer weather.  Products you use in the summer might not be hydrating enough for the cold winter weather.

6. What skincare treatments (dermabrasion, lasers etc) do you regularly have done?

Laser Genesis. This laser stimulates collagen superficially in the upper layers of the skin, helps skin glow as well.

Exilis Ultra.  It combines radio frequency with ultrasound for skin tightening.  It softens lines and improves the appearance of the skin making it look younger by stimulating collagen production.

Botox.  It relaxes the muscles in the forehead and frown to smooth the overlying skin.  

PRP.  This treatment regenerates tissue and promotes your own collagen production. Your own plasma is injected back into your skin.   

7. What lifestyle habits do you have that keep your skin in top shape?

Eating a well-balanced diet.  Try to eat organic when you can.  Get in those antioxidants by choosing a multi-colored diet including fruits and vegetables.  Avoid processed foods.  I walk 3 miles per day with my dog Truffles. 

8. What’s in your makeup bag?

Thank you, Debra!

You can find more about Dr Jaliman on her website. You can also keep up with her on Instagram.

Take The Guesswork Out Of Skincare Shopping

Get access to the “Pro Skincare Library” for exclusive skincare routine “cheat sheets” and tricks to help you navigate the beauty aisles jungle like a pro and immediately know what to pick off the shelves to achieve the gorgeous skin of your dreams – even when you’re drowning in an endless sea of skincare products.

Success! Now check your email to confirm your subscription and get access to the skin library.