Dawn Siler

Winter is the most challenging time for skin, isn’t it?

You need a rich moisturiser that strengthens your skin’s protective barrier against the harsh winter weather. But if it’s too rich, you end up with a pimple fest all over your skin.

I don’t know about you, but I don’t wanna swap flaky skin for pimples. Like, can’t I just get rid of both?

Enter Epionce Renewal Face Lotion. A lighter version of the Renewal Face Cream, Epionce swears it strikes the perfect moisture balance for normal and combination skin.

Does it deliver? I’ve put it to the test for the past month. Here are the results:

Key Ingredients In Epionce Renewal Facial Lotion

Petrolatum

I know a lot of you won’t be happy to see petrolatum in Epionce Renewal Facial Lotion, but hear me out before writing it off as useless.

If you want to strengthen your skin’s protective barrier, petrolatum is one of the best for the job. It creates a protective barrier on the skin that locks moisture in and keeps germs, pollutants and other crap out of your skin.

Think of it as armour for your skin. The harsh winter weather will have a much harder time breaking it down and drying out/irritating your skin in the process.

I know what you’re gonna say now, “Ok, petrolatum may have its uses, but it comes from oil!” So, what?

Petrolatum isn’t oil. It undergoes a strict purifying process that removes ALL toxins and other impurities from it. What comes out of this process – petrolatum – is completely different from oil and 100% safe.

Will it give you pimples? Petrolatum itself isn’t comedogenic. But it can trap comedogenic ingredients into the skin, so be careful what you use it with!

Related: How To Strengthen Your Skin’s Protective Barrier

Safflower Seed Oil

Derived from the seeds of the safflower plant, safflower seed oil is another goodie that helps strengthen your skin’s protective barrier – and more.

Safflower seed oil is rich in Linoleic acid, a fatty acid that has moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties. It deeply moisturises skin and soothes irritations.

Bye bye, dry winter skin!

P.S. I’m highlighting safflower oil, but Epionce Renewal Facial Lotion has other oils, like meadowfoam and olive, that do the same thing.

Glycerin

It’s all well and good to trap moisture into the skin. But what if your skin doesn’t have enough moisture to begin with?

That’s where glycerin comes in. It’s a moisture magnet that attracts water from the air and the deeper layers of your skin and dumps it into the superficial layers that need it the most.

In other words, it deeply hydrates skin, making it softer and suppler.

P.S. Hyaluronic acid, another moisture magnet in Epionce Renewal Facial Lotion, does the same thing – only on a much bigger scale. It can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water!

Related: Why Is Glycerin In All Your Skincare Products?

Let’s Put It To The Test: Personal Use & Opinion

Epionce Renewal Facial Lotion has a lightweight texture that sinks in quickly and dries to a lovely sheen. I dig the slightly dewy look, but if you’re oilier than me you may find it a bit too much.

The lotion does a wonderful job at moisturising my skin. I use it both morning and night and my skin is in top shape: softer, smoother, suppler. Even the harsh London winter doesn’t seem able to dry it out now.

FYI, this is all you can expect from this lotion. If you’re looking for something that can moisturise skin and strengthen your skin’s protective barrier without giving you pimples (I didn’t get a single one!), no one can say this doesn’t deliver.

But at this price point, I wish it went the extra mile. The cream is low on antioxidants or soothing agents. Instead, it “makes up for them” with citrus oils that can irritate sensitive skin.

The lotion didn’t irritate my skin but you get the point. Lovely moisturizer, but please Epionce, take out the fragrance and add more antioxidants next time. 🙂

Available at: $94.00/£77.50 at Dermstore and Epionce

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Have you tried Epionce Renewal Facial Lotion? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Ingredients: Water, Butylene Glycol, Petrolatum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glycerin, PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Polyacrylamide, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Laureth-7, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Beeswax, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cymbopogon Flexosus (Lemongrass) Oil, Dimethiconol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hexylene Glycol, Lavandula Hybrida (Lavandin) Oil, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Litsea Cubeba Oil, Malic Acid, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables, PEG-100 Stearate, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Quercetin, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide.

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“I exfoliate with glycolic acid. Can I follow it up with vitamin C?”

Short answer: yes, you can. But that doesn’t mean that you should…

Long answer: it’s complicated. Here’s what I mean:

What The Heck Is L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)?

L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure form of vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant that:

If you’re in your early ’20s and want to kickstart your antiaging journey, vitamin C is the perfect place to start.

The catch? L-Ascorbic Acid ain’t the only form of vitamin C. This antioxidant come in many forms. Like, Magnesium Ascorbic Phosphate and Ascorbyl Glucoside, to name a few.

For this post, I’ll cover just L-Ascorbic Acid. It’s the most pH dependent. Put simply: it works better at a pH of 3.5 or lower.

FYI, that doesn’t mean that if you raise the pH to 3.6, L-Ascorbic Acid becomes useless. It’s just the higher up you go, the less effective it gets.

Other forms of vitamin C aren’t so finicky. They work even at higher pHs. But why am I telling you this?

Because the higher pH of glycolic acid is usually cited as reason why it’s incompatible with L-Ascorbic Acid. Keep that in mind. We’ll come back to it.

Best Picks:

Related: Why You Should Add Vitamin C To Your Skincare Routine

What The Heck Is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is the best exfoliant for dry skin (if you a different skin type, you can stop reading now. You don’t need to mix glycolic acid with anything. Ha!).

A member of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) family, glycolic acid dissolves the glue that holds skin cells together so they can easily slough off.

Once those dead cells are off your skin, your complexion instantly looks better. Your skin is softer to the touch. Your fine lines look smoother and smaller. And your entire face glows as if lit from within.

That’s not all. Glycolic acid acts as a humectant: it attracts and binds water into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated. See why it’s so good for dry skin?

I’m sure you’ve also heard that glycolic acid can boost collagen. That’s true – but only at 10%+ concentrations. Most topical skincare products don’t have that much. 🙁

Best Picks:

Related: The Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid: What It Is, What It Does & How To Use It

Why You Can Use L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) And Glycolic Acid Together

Remember when I told you that critics say you can’t mix vitamin C with glycolic acid because they work at different pHs? That’s not exactly true.

As you know, L-Ascorbic Acid works best at a pH of 3.5 or lower. Some glycolic acid exfoliants on the market go above that. You can find some with a pH as high as… 4!

Not much of a difference, is there? Truth is, pure vitamin C and glycolic acid work well at around the same pH.

They both like it low. But if you go too low, you can literally burn your skin! That’s why you’ll never find a skincare product with a pH of 2.

As long as difference between pHs is so little, you’ve got nothing to worry about. Both glycolic acid and vitamin C will work at their best.

Sue Ann Wee, a dermatologist at the Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City, agrees: “From a general chemistry compatibility point of view, vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) can be combined in cosmetic formulations with hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, since both can maintain their efficacy in similar acidic pH ranges.”

Best Pick:

Why You Shouldn’t Use L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) And Glycolic Acid Together

You won’t compromise the effectiveness of L-Ascorbic Acid or glycolic acid if you use them together. But the mixture can be too harsh for your skin.

Here’s the deal: both L-Ascorbic Acid and glycolic acid are powerful. In skincare, powerful often means irritating.

Used alone, they can sting and irritate skin. Used together, you’re doubling the risk of irritation.

If you have resistant skin that can tolerate anything, then yes, you CAN use L-Ascorbic Acid and glycolic acid together. Exfoliate and then layer vitamin C on top.

But if you have sensitive skin or are using these actives for the first time, don’t risk it. You can minimise the risk of irritation by using them at different times of the day.

That’s what I do. And my skin is pretty resistant. I just don’t believe in overdoing skincare. Too much of a good thing can backfire. 😉

I like to apply L-Ascorbic Acid in the morning because studies show that it can boost the sun protection of your sunscreen. I then use glycolic acid every other night.

This way, I get the best of both worlds without the irritation. 🙂

The Bottom Line

You can totally use L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) and glycolic acid together without making them ineffective. But that doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. For some people, this combo is too harsh. If that’s you, use them at different times of the day.

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My heart broke when Sunday Riley reformulated Good Genes with glycolic acid instead than lactic acid.

I totally get it why she had to do it. A new EU law dictates that brands can’t sell lactic acid treatments that have a 10% concentration or a pH lower than 5.

Thanks EU! Don’t you have better things to do than screwing up with our skincare? I know you’re trying to protect consumers, but no one has ever died from using Good Genes.

Plus, there are so few exfoliants suitable for sensitive skin. With this move, a lot of people with sensitive skin could switch to something that’s more irritating for their skin. Like, you know, glycolic acid…

I can’t in good conscience recommend the new glycolic version of Sunday Riley Good Genes to anyone with sensitive skin anymore. 🙁

But what if you don’t have sensitive skin? If your skin can tolerate glycolic acid, Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment is still a great buy:

P.S. Yes, that in the picture above is a sample size. I wasn’t sure I was gonna like the new version of Good Genes so I treated myself (read: bought with my own money) to a Sunday Riley holiday set with mini sizes of the brand’s bestsellers to find out.

Key Ingredients In Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment

Glycolic Acid

The old Sunday Riley Good Genes uses 7% lactic acid at a pH of 3. The new Sunday Riley Good Genes uses 7% glycolic acid + a lactic acid salt at 3% and a pH of 3.5. What’s the difference?

Glycolic acid and lactic acid are both members of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) family, a group of exfoliants that dissolves the “glue” that holds skin cells together so they can slough off.

Glycolic acid has a smaller size than lactic acid. This makes it more effective (you’ll see results sooner) but also more irritating. That’s why I can’t recommend it for sensitive skin.

Glycolic acid and lactic acid have another thing in common: they have water-binding properties that deeply hydrate skin.

In theory, glycolic acid goes even further: this acid is famous for boosting collagen production. The catch? It does it at 10%+ concentrations.

Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment has 7% glycolic acid so don’t expect it to do too much for antiaging. Here, it only exfoliates skin, smoothens out its texture and gives the complexion a beautiful glow. Not shabby, is it?

FYI, if you have oily skin or acne, salicylic acid is a much better exfoliant for you.

Related: Glycolic Acid Vs Lactic Acid: Which One Should You Choose?

Squalane

Everyone’s into squalane at the moment – Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment uses it, too.

What’s so special about it? For starters, it’s so similar to human sebum (your skin’s natural moisturiser) so it sinks in super quickly.

That makes it super moisturizing too. Squalane strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, moisturises skin and keeps it soft and smooth for hours.

The best part? It’s safe for everyone. It doesn’t cause irritations or give you breakouts. Heck, even people with fungal acne can use it without risking another flareup.

Dimethicone

Yep, the base of Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment is Dimethicone, a famous silicone many people love to hate.

They say it clogs pores, suffocates skin and has zero benefits for the skin. I wouldn’t be so drastic…

It’s true Dimethicone has no antioxidants or soothing properties. But it makes the texture easier to spread, fill in fine lines and large pores so they look smaller and creates a barrier on the skin that keeps moisture in.

By the way, this barrier is breathable. Silicones have a particular molecular structure with wide gaps between each molecules. Skin can perspire through these gaps.

While we’re busting skincare myths, Dimethicone itself doesn’t clog pores. It’s when you use it together with comedogenic ingredients that breakouts happen.

Related: Are Silicones Bad For Skin?

Let’s Put It To The Test: Personal Use & Opinion

Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment has a lightweight, lotion-like texture that sinks in immediately on my dry skin.

Now, if you’re expecting a change in pore size or blackhead removal, you’ll be disappointed. That’s a job for salicylic acid, not glycolic acid.

But if you’ve got dry skin with small pores and no blackheads, you’re in for a treat. Already the morning after using Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment, my skin was already brighter. It had a lovely glow to it.

My skin also got softer. Without all those dead cells on my skin, the whole surface was smoother and softer to the touch.

All in all, Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment did exactly what I expected it to do: it exfoliated the surface of my skin so that it looks smoother and more awake. Good job!

Available at: £85.00 at Cult Beauty, Net-A-Porter and SpaceNK

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Have you tried Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Ingredients: Water/ Aqua/ Eau, Dimethicone, Glycolic Acid, Squalane, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Potassium Lactate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, PPG-24-Glycereth-24, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ceteareth-20, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate, Potassium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Citral, Geraniol, Limonene

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Spoiler: I wouldn’t call The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% a dupe of Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster.

If you know The Ordinary (and who doesn’t?), you know they’re one tricky ponies. They give you one active per product – that’s how they keep the prices low.

Paula’s Choice takes the opposite approach. She packs her products with all the goodies she can find. But, of course, you’re going to pay more for that.

So why am I even writing this post? Well, Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster and The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% are the most popular Azelaic Acid products out there – and it’s not like they have much competition.

If you’re ready to try Azelaic Acid but don’t want to go down the prescription route yet, chances are you’re gonna buy one of these two. So, which one is worth your money?

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid is an acid your skin’s microbiome (the good bacteria and yeast that live on your skin) produces. It has several superpowers:

To sum it all up, Azelaic Acid exfoliates skin, unclogs pores, reduces inflammation and even kills bad bacteria.

If you’re tried everything to get rid of your dark spots, acne or rosacea, give Azelaic Acid one last go. You should see results pretty quickly.

Related: Battle Of The Skin-Lighteners: What Is The Best Alternative To Hydroquinone?

What Else Do You Need To Know?

There’s a reason why The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is way cheaper than Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster: the formula’s super basic.

Azelaic Acid aside, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension only contains a bunch of silicones that make the thick texture easier to spread, keep skin soft and supple and reduce the appearance of fine lines and large pores.

I know what you’re going to say: “But Gio, don’t silicones suffocate skin?”

No. Silicones have a particular molecular structure with big gaps between each molecules. Skin can still perspire – and active ingredients reach the skin – through these gaps.

The real con of silicones is they’re the skincare equivalent of foundations. They airbrush imperfections but don’t have any moisturising or antioxidant properties.

If it’s those goodies you’re after, Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is a much better choice (no pun intended!). Here’s what else it contains:

Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster goes the extra mile: it helps with acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation, soothes irritations and moisturises skin.

Related: Are Silicones Bad For Skin?

Which Of The Two Should You Go For?

First things first: I recommend Azelaic Acid only when you’re dealing with stubborn acne, rosacea or hyperpigmentation that don’t go away.

Don’t go adding products you don’t need to your skincare routine because you’ve heard raves about them. That’s NOT going to help your skin.

Now that’s out of the way, which of the two should you go for? It all depends on your budget.

If you’re on a tight budget and don’t mind silicones, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% will do the job just fine.

If you can afford to spend a little more, Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is worth every penny. Azelaic Acid doesn’t play solo, so you get more bang for your buck.

Availability

Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00/£37.00): available at Dermstore, Net-A-Porter and Paula’s Choice

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% (£5.50): available at Asos, Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty and Feel Unique

Is The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% A Dupe For Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster?

Nope. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% isn’t a dupe for Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster. It’s a much more basic version. You only get the Azelaic Acid and little else. But if you’re on a tight budget, it’ll do.

What’s your fave: Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster or The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%? Share your pick in the comments below.

Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Azelaic Acid (skin-brightening/tone-improving), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (emollient), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (skin-replenishing), Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (emollient), Glycerin (skin-replenishing), Cetearyl Alcohol (texture enhancer), Glyceryl Stearate (texture enhancer), Dimethicone (hydration/texture enhancer), Salicylic Acid (exfoliant), Adenosine (skin-restoring), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (skin-soothing), Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract (skin-soothing), Allantoin (skin-soothing), Bisabolol (skin-soothing), Cyclopentasiloxane (texture enhancer), Xanthan Gum (stabilizer), Sclerotium Gum (stabilizer), Propanediol (hydration), Butylene Glycol (hydration), Phenoxyethanol (preservative).

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Azelaic Acid, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane, Tocopherol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Triethanolamine, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

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As it stands there’s not many days set aside to celebrate friendship, let alone that beyond special female bound, so to everyone that dismisses Galentine’s Day as the pinnacle of consumerism (to which you are probably onto something), I say cast aside your cynicism and let me be your friend – or in the very least, may I suggest a great Rom-Com and dairy-free ice cream brand? To everyone else, yes this is the perfect excuse to spoil yourself and best gal pal/s – go big or go home. If ever there was a selection of gifts to help you mark the occasion you’ll find them all beautifully presented below…

The Body Shop is just great isn’t it? You have all the fun of the bathing wonders that shops like Lush offer and yet no blaring migraine to contend with, and typically there’s at least one promotional offer running around major events. Now pretty much anything from The Body Shop would make for a wonderful surprise token of affection but for those looking to up their gift giving game, then I fully recommend The Body Shop Heart Gift Set (£9) . This dinky, heart-shaped tin contains three deliciously, Strawberry scented bath and body products to leave any lucky person feeling pampered head-to-toe.

Each year Kiko launch an enticingly beautiful make-up collection which tends to be based around the theme of love just in time for Valentine’s Day; to date, I’ve never not been swayed by at least one product. This year we have the Kiko Sweetheart collection (£2.90 – £16.90), a vast, pretty-in-pink line up which contains several lip products, a sweetly presented eyeshadow palette and much more. The real stars of the show are the baked blushes and highlighter which are universally flattering and appealing, the best part is that each item is very reasonably priced too.

Make-up in general is something I don’t tend to gift frequently, unless I really know the person or they specifically ask for a selected item. If you are however a tad more adventurous, then try the totally on-brand but ever useful YSL Touché Eclat Blur Primer. Yes the sweet-pink hue can be a little daunting but along with perfecting the skin and hydrating, it brightens and locks make-up in place all day long.

Another great option is a modern take on a classic via the medium of red lipstick. Now Too Faced Metallic Sparkle Lipstick in Too Too Hot (£18)- isn’t your bog standard bright red slick of colour, rather it has a foil like finish and tiny flecks of glitter to amp up an everyday staple.

If ever there’s a time to gift skincare it is Galentine’s Day, even if only to live in hope you will also get to sample some of its promised delights. For those not on a tight budget, I recommend all but making your friends February by picking up the 30ml version of Charlotte Tilbury’s Charlotte’s Magic Cream  (£49)- slightly more affordable than the larger size and every bit as luxe.

Or perhaps not only help to hydrate your BFF’s complexion but introduce them to a slightly-off-the-radar beauty brand at the same time? If so, then grab a few Bybi Mega Mists (£26) and let the Hyaluronic Acid loaded facial mist work their wonders.

Why stop at nourishing the complexion, when gloriously scented hair products such as Soap & Glory Wonditioner (£6) exists? This thick and luxurious hair mask, quenches even the driest of locks and at just £6, it won’t break the bank so you’ll have plenty of cash left over for pizza and maybe even something alcoholic?

Now admittedly massage oil may be perceived as an odd gift to give or receive but y’know what, it is 2019 and sometimes a product is so good that it would be rude not to share the love (steady on, this isn’t an after dark episode). Slotting in (lord I’m pushing my luck aren’t I?) to such category is the divinely formulated Neighbourhood Botanical Rub by Peaches Massage Oil (£36). How you use it, is of course entirely up to you but I dare you not to fall for the beautiful blend of natural oils.

It’s not often in life that I suggest playing it safe (YOLO am I right?) but with fragrance stick to the classics or at least crowd pleasers. My top pick would be the soft, floral and ever so slightly sensual Calvin Klein Euphoria Blossom Eau de Toilette (£17.99), I’ve yet to find someone who doesn’t admire it’s beauty.

Love or loathe Feburary the 13th (or 14th) I am sending love your way like a true gal pal would – drunk texts and WhatsApp group chats cost extra.

Colette Haydon, I love you!

Ok, maybe I’m overreacting a bit, but it’s SO rare to come across the founder of a skincare brand who actually knows something about skin.

Colette and I share the same skincare philosophy. Like me, she believes that chemical vs synthetic is a bunch of nonsense, less is more and a good formula can be applied all over (face, eyes, neck, you name it).

See what I mean? Instead of coming up with more and more stupid skincare products no one needs, she keeps it simple and focuses on a few formulas that really work. How refreshing is that?

Her baby is LixirSkin. The brand is famous for its “Night Switch” range, which focuses on giving you one powerful active at a time. This way, you can give your skin everything it needs without overwhelming it.

The first product I tried (bought with my own money, FYI), is LixirSkin Night Switch Retinol 1%. Does it live up to the hype?

Key Ingredients In LixirSkin Night Switch Retinol 1%

Retinol To Fight Wrinkles

Retinol is the real deal. This form of vitamin A has plenty of research behind it showing it can really treat wrinkles. It works in three ways:

1. It has antioxidant properties that destroy free radicals before they give you wrinkles and dark spots.
2. It accelerates cellular turnover (i.e. the skin’s natural exfoliating process), reducing the appearance of dark spots and wrinkles.
3. It boosts the production of collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm.

Awesome, right?

Retinol is a powerful weapon. And like all powerful weapons, it has a double-edged sword: high concentrations of retinol – and 1% retinol is HUGE, trust me – can easily irritate skin, turn it red and make it flake.

If you have oily skin, you may even experience a purge. Anything that speeds up cellular turnover can make your skin worse before it makes it better.

Does it mean LixirSkin Night Switch Retinol 1% isn’t safe to use? Of course not! If, like mine, your skin is already used to high doses of retinol, you can use this without side effects.

But if you’re just at the beginning of your retinol journey, don’t rush it. Start with a smaller dose and work your way up to this (I’ve explained how to do it step-by-step here). Your skin will thank you.

P.S. Retinol is the real deal, but it’s not a miracle worker. Even with high concentrations, it can take up to 6 weeks to see results. Be patient!

Related: How To Counteract The Side Effects Of Retinol

Phospholipids To Moisturise Skin

Phospholipids belong in the lipid family. They’re a group of fats and waxes that naturally occur in your skin.

You’ll know when your skin lacks phospholipids. If you’ve living somewhere freezing cold or you’ve been using harsh skincare products that strip them off your skin, your face becomes a dry and irritated mess.

You see, phosholipids moisturise skin in two ways:

• They attract moisture from the environment into skin and bind it there
• They strengthen the skin’s protective barrier against its enemies (like said harsh weather and skincare products)

That’s why it’s important to make sure your skin always has plenty phosholipids. LixirSkin Night Switch Retinol 1% contains more than its fair share. They’re second place on the list after water!

Let’s Put It To The Test: Personal Use & Opinion

I like that LixirSkin Night Switch Retinol 1% keep things simple. Instead than filling their serums with a bunch of extracts and fillers just because they can, LixirSkin just put in the essentials.

That’s smart. 1% retinol is already harsh enough, so you don’t want anything else that could irritate skin (like fragrance or citrus oils).

The texture looks and feels like a liquidy oil, if that makes sense. It’s sticky for a minute and then sinks into the skin nicely. I use it alone, but LixirSkin says you can mix it with a moisturizer.

Like I mentioned above, it takes time to see results with retinol. At first, I’ve just noticed how soft and smooth the phospholids made my skin.

That was a relief. 1% retinol can easily make skin flake but this didn’t. The phospholipids counteracted the potential dryness and made retinol easier to tolerate for your skin.

It took a few more wrinkles before I could see an effect on my fine lines. But they do seem to get that little bit smaller and my skin a little firmer. Plus, my whole skin glows.

The secret is to keep at it. Good skincare doesn’t work overnight. It can be frustrating to wait weeks to see only a tiny improvement, but it’ll be worth it in the end.

P.S. The bottle is small. Only 15ml. But I don’t mind that. 1% retinol isn’t meant to be used daily. If you use it every other night like I do, it’ll still last you a long time.

Available at: $42.00/£28.00 at Asos, Cult Beauty, Luisa Via Roma and Net-A-Porter

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Have you tried LixirSkin Night Switch Retinol 1%? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Phospholipids, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Retinol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Glyceryl Laurate, EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin.

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You’d never say Dr Cynthia Bailey is in her ’60s. She looks like she’s 40-something. What does she know that we don’t?

The surprising part is that she lives in sunny California and had been a sun worshipper for years before realising how bad that was for her skin. Yet, there’s no trace of sun damage on her face.

That’s what good skincare and cosmetic treatments can do for you. Dr Bailey certainly knows how to make the most of them to shave years off her face… and that of her patients, customers and readers.

Her credentials are impeccable, too. She’s a Board Certified California Dermatologist and Founder of DrBaileySkinCare.com, her own skincare line. On her website, you’ll find plenty of skincare tips to get a clear, flawless complexion and be able to buy the same products Dr Bailey uses on her skin every day.

In this interview, Dr Bailey shares her anti-aging secrets, including her daily skincare routine, the cosmetic treatments she gets done regularly and the lifestyle habits that keep her young, both inside and out:

1. When did you become interested in skincare?

When I was about 7, a friend of mine, Julie Wilgus, thought the woman on the Noxema commercial was so smart and beautiful. The commercial said to leave Noxema on your face and then rinse it off. We sat on the bathroom counter at Julies house and looked at ourselves in the mirror with the white Noxema on our faces and our hair wrapped up in a towel. We thought we looked like the commercial. When we rinsed off the Noxema, my skin was red and stung. It irritated my skin and we probably left it on way too long. I gave myself a nice irritant dermatitis and realized that skin care promised in advertisements don’t always translate to the way things work out for my skin.

2. What’s your skincare routine like?

My skin care routine is diligent and purposeful. It’s based on the AM and PM cycle. I start with clean skin ready to maximally absorb specific actives. All my products are hypoallergenic. I first wash off my night products with my Natural Bar Soap or my pH balanced cleanser (Extremely Gentle) followed by my Rose toner. This preps get my skin ready for my next products.

Every day in the morning I apply a high concentration and water based hyaluronic acid serum (Instantly Luminous) then high concentration green tea antioxidant (Green Tea Therapy) and an eye cream (Advanced Corrective). I top this antioxidant and hydration cocktail with a zinc oxide sunscreen that is a BB Cream (Suntegrity). It also hydrates and tints to act as my moisturizer and foundation. It is a sunscreen first and the other steps are nicely handled by this product so it saves me time.

My priority, however, is the broad spectrum SPF. Twice a week I use an exfoliating scrub instead of cleanser to wash my face (Bamboo and Clay Thermal Scrub). Two other times a week I top my Green Tea with a vitamin C product and omit the eye cream (Professional Vitamin C Treatment Cream). If I wear makeup it is a pure mineral makeup powder. My complexion is pretty nice for a 60 year old blond Californian who tanned as a teen, so I don’t really need to soften or hid complexion flaws.

At night I have started to remove my sunscreen and day products with grape seed oil and a warm cloth. This is a nice step that I’m borrowing from K-Beauty and my skin loves it. I then cleanse my skin with my gentle pH balanced cleanser and a Clarisonic. If my skin is irritated by weather or my rosacea is threatening to flare up, I apply the Green Tea followed by my Daily Face Cream (Normal to Dry) boosted with my Omega Booster Oil. If my skin is feeling tolerant I use my favorite antiaging products – either tretinoin (prescription) or retinol. Tretinoin is in a hydrating base, but if I use the retinol, I hydrate by topping it with my Daily Face Cream and Booster Oil.

I’m a big glycolic acid fan, but as I have gotten older, it is harder for my rosacea to tolerate regular glycolic acid products on my face. I used them in my 30s and 40s every morning. Now, I get this great ingredient into my routine by doing a glycolic acid peel at least once a month.

3. If you could only use three skincare products for the rest of your life, what would they be?

That’s easy, zinc oxide sunscreen, a professional green tea product and a retinoid.

4. What are your fave skincare brands and why?

I have my own skin care line and I mostly use them. The products are hypoallergenic yet highly function oriented, which fits my values and priorities. I also like simple natural products, such as grape seed oil for removing oil based sunscreen or makeup. I have used pure jojoba oil as a moisturizer too. These are hypoallergenic and functional options in skin care.

Brands like Hauschka and Weleda have options that are natural, non-toxic and gentle for sensitive skin and deeply hydrating too. You do have to watch for allergens in some of their products. I love Suntegrity BB Cream Sunscreen and wear it daily. I was devoted to Clinique in my teen years and many of their products are both functional and hypoallergenic.

5. What are your top 3 skincare tips to take care of your skin?

1. Protect your exposed skin from the sun daily with sunscreen or clothing, and seek the shade. Sun breaks down your skin structure more than time does. Just say ‘no’ to skin sun exposure.
2. Focus on your skin from the inside out with a health veggie packed diet and regular exercise. Skip the daily junk food and empty calories, they show up on your complexion. Exercise makes your skin glow with vitality.
3. Create a complete skin care routine with compatible products. That means tick the boxes for Cleanse, Correct, Hydrate and Protect every day. You can do that as simply or as complexly as you want.

6. What skincare treatments do you regularly have done?

I have had a series of IPL (5) and do 2 a year on my face, neck, chest, hands and arms. This has made a huge difference for my skin. I do an ablative erbium laser face and neck treatment once or twice a year. I have a face full of Allergan injectable products and have for years – Botox on my upper face and hyaluronic acid Juvederm family of fillers on my 60 year old lower face. I appreciate Allergan’s product formulation technology and think they offer the safest of all injectables so I don’t stray into other brands.

I do a glycolic acid peel on myself once a month and I like to get a facial with microdermabrasion about every 6 weeks.

My 60 year old fair skin grew up in California and tanned until my mid-20s. This sun damage would love to show up in my complexion as dull, wrinkled and spotty old lady skin. It takes effort to resist that.

7. What lifestyle habits do you have that keep your skin in top shape?

• I eat mostly plants with only a small amount of animal foods in my diet such as goat yogurt/cheese and some meat. I have a glass of red wine with dinner every evening too! (Cured Italian meats are my guilty pleasure)
• I have always exercised regularly, for both my physical and mental health. I get at least 150 minutes of cardio each week (brisk walk and lap swim at this age, but I did more intense cardio when I was young). I do yoga and Pilates every week too.
• I spend time outdoors for the serenity and recharge it gives me.
• Since undergoing treatment for BRCA breast cancer, I also occasionally take an afternoon nap with my dog. I make it a priority to get a good 8 hours of sleep too.

At 60, if I fall off this full wellness routine, my complexion starts to look as depleted as I feel. 

8. What’s in your makeup bag?

Not much! I wear blinc mascara (I love their acrylate-based tubular technology. Any other mascara smears under my eyes the minute I put it on). I use my pure mineral makeup powders for eye shadows and blush. I line and fill in my lips with Hauschka lip liner, and top that with one of the shimmery Suntegrity CPR SPF lipsticks. Occasionally I apply my Baked Mineral Powder over my Suntegrity BB Cream SPF if I’m filming or will be in photos and want to have a more matte appearance to my skin.

Thank you, Dr Bailey!

You can buy Dr Cynthia Bailey Skincare or just read her advice on her website, or catch up with her on Instagram, Twitter and Youtube.

Did you know? Cannabis skincare is all the rage now.

Yeah. Go figure. But hey, I guess I wouldn’t be a proper skincare blogger if I didn’t give it a try, right? That’s why my first foray into The Inkey List is their Hemp Oil Moisturizer.

PRO TIP: if you want to try a new skincare trend, go for a cheap option. If it works, you can always upgrade later. FYI, most of the time it’s just a fad. 🙂

So, what’s the deal with cannabis in skincare and how did The Inkey List Hemp Oil Moisturizer fare?

Key Ingredients In The Inkey List Hemp Oil Moisturizer

Hemp Oil

Say what?! Is there marijuana in my moisturizer?!

Fret not. Hemp oil is NOT marijuana. They’re both members of the cannabis plant family, so people tend to lump them together and think they’re the same thing.

They’re not. But hey, it makes for some good skincare news. 😉 Brands are running with it, saying it can work all kinds of miracles.

So far, science confirmed only one (bummer, I know!): hemp oil is super moisturizing. Together with borage and evening primrose, hemp oil is one of the three oils rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA for short).

GLA is a multitasker: it moisturises skin, fights free radicals and soothes irritations. This makes The Inkey List Hemp Oil Moisturizer a great choice for dry, sensitive skin that gets irritated easily.

Coconut Oil

I know what you’re thinking, “Coconut oil? Won’t this thing give me pimples?”

I had the same doubts. That’s why I hesitated to put The Inkey List Hemp Oil Moisturizer in my shopping cart. Coconut oil has a track record of giving people breakouts.

I’ll be honest: if my skin were still oily, I wouldn’t had risked it. But it’s more on the drier side now (thanks, London!) so I felt it was safer to give it a shot – luckily it didn’t disappoint. I didn’t get a single pimple in 6 weeks!

What else does coconut oil do – apart from giving some people breakouts? It’s super moisturizing. Coconut oil creates a barrier on the skin that traps moisture in, keeping skin soft and supple for hours.

Related: Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Coconut Oil In Skincare

Green Tea

The Inkey List Hemp Oil Moisturizer isn’t that rich in antioxidants – and I totally understand why. They have to keep the price down somehow.

But, at least it gives you one of the best antioxidants out there: green tea. What’s so special about it?

Green tea is rich in polyphenols, a group of antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties. Here’s what these antioxidants do:

• Fight wrinkles: polyphenols destroy free radicals before they can give you wrinkles. EGCG, the most powerful polyphenol in green tea, is 200 times more powerful than vitamin E!
• Soothe irritations: polyphenols reduce chronic inflammation, one of the main causes of free radicals (and premature aging).
• Protect skin from the sun: they reduce the inflammation caused by UV rays.

Told you it was pretty powerful!

Related: All You Ever Wanted To Know About Green Tea In Skincare

Let’s Put It To The Test: Personal Use & Opinion

You’d think that with coconut in the mix, The Inkey List Hemp Oil Moisturizer had a rich, hard-to-blend, pore-clogging texture.

Wrong! This stuff is very lightweight, almost to the point of being runny. On the plus side, it spreads easily and sinks in quickly.

On the other hand, that means a little too much moisturizer comes out every time I squeeze the tube. I have a feeling that’s why it ran out on me within a few short weeks. But hey, at least restocking frequently won’t break the bank. 😉

So how does the moisturizer fare? It’s a great choice for combination and dry skin. It moisturises skin without clogging up oily areas. Most days, this on top of a hyaluronic acid serum is all I need to keep my skin soft and supple in this freezing cold.

If your skin is very dry, especially if it’s flaking or easily reddens, I don’t think this will be enough for you. You may want to get something richer and even more nourishing. It’s all about knowing what works for YOUR skin type.

Available at: £7.99 at Asos, Cult Beauty and Feel Unique

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Have you tried The Inkey List Hemp Oil Moisturizer? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Isoamyl Laurate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Betaine, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Propanediol, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Hydroxide, t-Butyl Alcohol

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